Plumbing Blog | 1Touch Plumbing

How to Clear a Blocked Drain Without Damaging Your Pipes

admin / July 23, 2026

A slow-draining sink, water pooling in the shower, or a gurgling toilet are all common signs of a blocked drain. The good news is, these are some of the most common blocked drains we fix across Townsville, and a good number of them can be cleared with the right DIY approach. In this guide, we’ll cover what you can safely fix yourself, what you shouldn’t attempt, and the right approach for the specific drain you’re dealing with, so you don’t turn a simple blockage into a bigger, more expensive plumbing repair. TL;DR Before You Try Any of the Methods Below 6 Ways to Clear a Blocked Drain on Your Own The methods below are arranged from the simplest to the most involved. Start with the first method and work your way down only if needed. This helps reduce the risk of damaging your pipes while giving you the best chance of clearing a minor drain blockage yourself. 1. Flush the Drain with Hot Water This is the first thing worth trying if water’s still draining, but slowly. It works well on grease and soap residue, though it won’t do anything for a hair clog that needs physically pulling out. Works for: kitchen sink, bathroom sink, shower or bath, laundry drain Things you’ll need: How to do it: 2. Break Down Build-Up with Baking Soda and Vinegar If hot water alone didn’t fully clear it, this is the next step up. The fizzing reaction helps break down soap scum and light organic build-up, but like the hot water flush, it won’t help dislodge a solid hair clog or a foreign object stuck in the pipe. Works for: kitchen sink, bathroom sink, shower or bath, laundry drain Things you’ll need: How to do it: PS: At this point, you might be tempted to reach for a chemical drain cleaner, so if you do use one, follow the manufacturer’s instructions exactly. If it doesn’t clear the blockage, don’t try to force it by increasing the concentration, leaving it in longer than recommended, or mixing in another cleaner, that can harm you, damage the pipe, and make it unsafe for a plumber to work on later. 3. Dislodge the Blockage with a Plunger If the fizzing didn’t help, you’re likely dealing with something sitting in the drain and that’s where a plunger can help. Just make sure you’re using the right one for the job. For sinks, showers, and baths, use a flat-cup plunger, or an accordion plunger if you need a stronger grip. For toilets, use a flanged plunger, the one with the extra rubber lip, which is built to seal in the bowl and won’t work properly on anything else. Works for: kitchen sink, bathroom sink, shower or bath, toilet Things you’ll need: How to do it (for sinks, showers, and baths) How to do it (for toilets) 4. Remove the Blockage with a Hooked Wire or Drain Snake If plunging didn’t get things moving, you’re likely dealing with hair wrapped around the pipe wall or snagged at the trap. A hooked wire or drain snake will help grab and pull that clump out but you’ll need to be careful with how much force you apply. If you hit firm resistance and keep pushing, you risk cracking an old trap, scratching the pipe, or shoving the clog further in where it’s harder to reach. Works for: bathroom sink, shower or bath drain Option A: Hooked Wire Things you’ll need: How to do it: Option B: Drain Snake Things you’ll need: How to do it: 5. Remove and Clean the P-Trap (U-Bend) If you’ve tried everything above and it’s still blocked, the clog is probably sitting inside the U-bend itself, right where a plunger or wire can’t quite reach it. So your only option is to take the pipe off and clean it out by hand – which takes more effort than the earlier steps, but it puts you directly at the spot where the blockage is stuck. Works for: kitchen and bathroom sink Things you’ll need: How to do it: 6. Clear Surface Debris from Outdoor Drains This one covers a different situation: water pooling around an outdoor grate or stormwater drain, with leaves, dirt, or debris visible on top of it. Works for: outdoor stormwater grates Things you’ll need: How to do it: A little tip: Townsville’s wet season pushes leaves and dirt into outdoor grates fast, so it’s worth checking them regularly during heavy rain. And if the grate’s clear but water is still pooling, that’s a sign the blockage is further down the pipe – you’ll need to call a plumber to inspect and fix it. 7. Extract the Blockage Use a Wet/Dry Vacuum If you don’t have a plunger on hand, a wet/dry vacuum is a solid alternative for a stubborn blockage. It can pull the obstruction back up toward the opening, which makes it much easier to remove by hand afterward. It’s best suited to softer blockages like paper, hair, or organic matter, and won’t do much against anything solid or lodged deep in the system. Works for: toilets, kitchen sinks, bathroom sinks, bathtubs, showers Things you’ll need: How to do it: One important caution here: Never use a wet/dry vacuum if you’ve recently poured a commercial chemical drain cleaner into the drain. The vacuum could spray all those chemicals back towards you. Final Thoughts Even if you’ve managed to clear the blockage, it’s not always a permanent fix. If the same drain keeps blocking after you’ve cleared it, or more than one fixture is affected at once, the problem is usually deeper within the drainage system. It could be anything between a tree root intrusion, or severe pipe damage – which are all structural issues that none of the DIY methods in this guide will fix. That’s where a professional inspection makes all the difference. At 1Touch Plumbing, we use CCTV drain inspections to identify the actual cause of recurring blocked drains, allowing us to

Plumbing

Signs You Have Tree Roots in Your Pipe & How to Remove Them

admin / July 21, 2026

Tree roots enter your sewer pipe through small cracks or loose pipe joints, then continue to grow until they restrict or completely block the flow of wastewater. But identifying the warning signs early helps you address the root cause before it leads to major pipe damage, sewage backups, or more expensive repairs. In this guide, we’ll share with you the common signs of tree roots in pipes, how to confirm the problem, DIY and professional removal methods, and the best ways to prevent tree roots from growing back. TL;DR Signs You May Have Tree Roots in Your Pipes Indoor Warning Signs Outdoor Warning Signs How to Confirm Tree Roots in Pipes Tree roots grow inside underground pipes, so you can’t confirm the problem by looking at your drains or yard. A licensed plumber uses specialised equipment to locate the root intrusion, assess the pipe’s condition, and recommend the most suitable repair method. Here is what a plumber does: DIY Methods to Remove Tree Roots from Pipes Under the Queensland Plumbing and Drainage Act 2018, only a licensed plumber can repair, replace, alter, or dismantle sanitary drainage pipes. But you can use a few non-invasive DIY methods to control minor tree root growth inside the pipe. These methods don’t involve repairing or altering the pipe, so you stay within the law. Copper Sulphate Treatment Copper sulphate kills the fine feeder roots that have grown through cracks or pipe joints. As the roots die, they gradually break down and wash away with normal wastewater flow, improving drainage. How to use it: This method only works when wastewater can still flow through the pipe because a complete blockage prevents the treatment from reaching the tree roots. Commercial Foaming Root Killers Foaming root killers release a foam that expands to fill the pipe. The foam sticks to the pipe walls and joints, coating the roots growing from the top and sides, and the active ingredient then kills the fine roots. How to use them: Foaming root killers work best on early root intrusion. They won’t clear a pipe clogged with thick roots or fix cracks that let roots keep growing back. Household Drain Auger A household drain auger is a flexible steel cable with a corkscrew tip that breaks up or pulls out fine tree roots and loose root fibres from the pipe. It works best on small root intrusions close to an inspection opening but isn’t powerful enough to clear large root masses or collapsed pipes. How to use it: Stop immediately if the cable becomes stuck or you feel excessive resistance. Forcing the auger may crack older earthenware pipes or cause the cable to become trapped. Professional Methods to Remove Tree Roots From Pipes If wastewater is overflowing from your overflow relief gully (ORG) or inspection opening, or backing up into your home, the blockage is too severe for DIY chemical treatments. At this stage, a licensed plumber will use the following methods to remove the roots. Mechanical Root Cutting (Drain Eel/Snake) A plumber feeds a heavy-duty rotating steel cable into the sewer pipe using a powered drain machine. A specialised root-cutting blade or C-cutter attached to the cable spins through the tree roots, cutting them into smaller pieces and reopening the pipe. Mechanical root cutting typically costs $150 to $350 for a standard residential drain blockage. It works best for thick tree roots causing localised blockages in clay, cast-iron, or PVC sewer pipes. However, root cutting only removes the blockage. It doesn’t repair the cracks or separated pipe joints that allowed the roots to enter, so roots often grow back. The cutting blades can also damage old, brittle earthenware pipes. High-Pressure Hydro Jetting After mechanical root cutting, plumbers use hydro-jetting to remove any remaining root fibres, grease, sludge, and debris. A hydro-jetting machine pumps high-pressure water through a reinforced hose to clean the entire inside of the pipe. Hydro jetting typically costs $300 to $600 for a standard residential blockage, depending on the severity of the blockage and access to the pipe. Like root cutting, hydro jetting removes the blockage but doesn’t seal cracks or damaged pipe joints, allowing tree roots to return through the same openings. Our team at 1touch Plumbing uses professional equipment to clear blocked drains, remove tree roots, and restore normal wastewater flow. How to Prevent Tree Roots From Growing Back in Pipes To prevent future root intrusion, we recommend one of the following long-term solutions. Trenchless Pipe Relining After removing the tree roots, a plumber inserts a flexible liner coated with structural epoxy resin into the damaged pipe. The liner is inflated and cured in place, creating a seamless pipe inside the existing one that seals cracks and separated joints. Most residential pipe relining projects cost $4,000 to $12,000. It is the best option for pipes beneath driveways, buildings, patios, or landscaped areas where excavation would be costly or disruptive. To confirm relining suits the extent and type of damage, our team at 1Touch runs a CCTV inspection first, then carries out the trenchless pipe relining. Traditional Excavation and Pipe Replacement If the pipe has collapsed or tree roots have caused extensive damage, plumbers excavate the affected area, remove the damaged pipe and root mass, and install new PVC sewer pipe with watertight joints. Simple pipe replacements start from $1,000, while larger or more complex excavations cost significantly more. Excavation may also require repairs to lawns, gardens, paving, or driveways after the new pipe is installed. Although excavation and replacement is the most disruptive option, it permanently removes the damaged pipe and eliminates the entry points that allowed tree roots to invade. Root Barrier Installation A plumber installs a root barrier between the tree and the sewer pipe to redirect growing roots away from the drainage system and protect repaired or newly installed pipes. Professional installation typically costs $200 to $300 per linear metre, depending on the barrier type, trench length, and site conditions. They work best where large trees are close to underground sewer

Roof Repair

How to Stop a Roof Leak Fast: Temporary Fixes, Real Repairs, and What Not to Do

admin / July 16, 2026

Even a small roof leak can quickly soak insulation, damage ceilings and timber framing, create electrical hazards, and lead to mould if water keeps coming in. This guide shows you how to find where a leak is actually coming from, stop it safely with a temporary fix suited to your roof, and avoid the mistakes that turn a small leak into a bigger one. TL;DR What to Do First to Stop a Roof Leak How to Stop a Roof Leak Temporarily Once you’ve taken the necessary safety precautions, follow these step-by-step instructions to temporarily stop water from entering your home. Step 1: Make Sure It’s Safe to Inspect or Repair the Roof Before planning any temporary repair, consider the weather and the condition of your roof. Do not climb onto the roof if: Onceit is safe to go on the roof, then move to the next step. Step 2: Gather the Right Tools and Materials Before accessing your roof, gather the right equipment to make the repair safer, quicker, and more effective. Here is what you need: Avoid using household products such as silicone, duct tape, expanding foam, or general-purpose construction adhesives. They’re not designed to withstand Australia’s harsh weather conditions and can fail in the sun, heavy rain, or as the roof expands and contracts. Step 3: Find the Exact Source of the Roof Leak Rainwater travels along roof battens, rafters, sarking, insulation, or roof sheeting before entering the ceiling and dripping, so you must know exactly where the water is getting in to repair it. Start by identifying where the leak is visible inside your home. Watch out for water stains on the ceiling or walls, bubbling paint, damp plasterboard, mould growth or active drips during rainfall. This narrows your search to one section of the roof rather than the entire roof. Next, if it’s safe and you can access the roof cavity, inspect it using a torch. Check the area above the ceiling damage for wet insulation, damp roof framing, water stains on timber, active drips, or daylight coming through the roof. Water often leaves visible trails as it runs along rafters or battens, so follow these trails uphill, as they can lead you closer to where the leak is entering the roof. From there, follow the moisture trail to nearby roof features such as the ridge cap, roof valley, skylight, roof vent, chimney, or solar panels. Noting these landmarks will help you find the same area when you look at the roof from outside. Step 4: Inspect the Roof to Identify What’s Causing the Leak You now know the likely location of the leak, so inspect the roof from outside. Grab a ladder and climb up onto the roof – start at the highest point above the suspected leak and work your way down, checking each roof component for damage that would allow water in. Check the following areas: Step 5: Choose the Right Temporary Repair Method Once you’ve identified the cause of the leak, choose one of the temporary repair methods below that matches the type and extent of the damage. Replace a Leaking Roofing Screw Roofing screws are fitted with neoprene washers that create a watertight seal. Over time, these washers can harden, crack, or compress, allowing water to seep around the screw. If only one or two screws are leaking: Seal Small Gaps Around Flashing Using Roofing-Grade Sealant If the flashing is securely fixed but water is entering through small gaps or deteriorated sealant, a roofing-grade sealant can provide a temporary waterproof seal. Clean and dry the surface and then apply the sealant. Run a continuous bead along the gap to ensure it completely seals the opening without leaving any gaps. This method is suitable for minor gaps around skylights, roof vents, chimneys, and other roof penetrations. It won’t solve leaks caused by loose, rusted, or damaged flashing, which requires replacement. Patch Small Holes or Splits in a Metal Roof Using Self-Adhesive Tape Small punctures, rust pinholes, or minor splits in metal roof sheeting can be covered with self-adhesive roof repair tape or a roof patch. To apply it: Temporarily Cover a Cracked Roof Tile Cover cracked tile with heavy-duty waterproof plastic that extends beyond the damaged area. Tuck the edges of the plastic under the surrounding tiles to keep it in place and direct rainwater over the affected tile instead of through it. Install a Temporary Roof Tarp for Larger Leaks or Storm Damage If your roof has missing roofing sheets, broken roof tiles or large openings from a storm, a waterproof tarp can keep rain out until permanent repairs are done. To apply it: Clear Minor Blockages If your inspection found leaves or debris blocking the gutters or roof valleys, carefully remove them by hand or with a scoop to restore water flow. Then check that water drains freely into the downpipes. If water still isn’t draining properly, the blockage may be inside the downpipe and require further clearing or professional assistance. Step 6: Check That the Temporary Repair Is Working When you finish the temporary repair, be sure the repair material is secured, the tarp is in place, or the replacement screw is sealed securely. Look for any gaps, loose edges or areas where water could still get in. Then inspect the affected room for: Remember that ceilings, insulation, and timber continue releasing trapped moisture for hours or days after the leak stops. A few residual drips don’t necessarily mean the repair failed, but if you notice new water entering your home or the affected area continues to spread, you should call a licensed roofer right away. Step 7: Arrange a Permanent Roof Repair Delaying permanent repairs can turn a minor leak into a more costly problem. Ongoing water intrusion can damage insulation, ceiling linings, timber framing, and internal finishes, while increasing the risk of mould, timber rot, and corrosion. Book a professional roof inspection as soon as possible to assess the full extent of the damage and repair

Roof Repair

Roof Waterproofing Services: What’s Included and What to Expect

admin / July 14, 2026

Roof waterproofing protects your home by creating a sealed protective layer across your roof that stops rainwater from penetrating inside. Without it, water slowly works its way through cracks and worn spots, and by the time you notice, the damage is already done. The signs it’s needed are usually very telling – a musty smell that won’t go away, mould showing up in the attic or on nearby walls, water stains on your ceiling, and shingles that are curling or cracking. Now, cost-wise, you’re typically looking at somewhere between $1,000 and $10,000, but it depends on the size of your roof, its current condition, and what materials the job calls for. It’s not a small spend, but a proper waterproofing job can last up to 25 years, so you’re really paying once to protect your home for decades. In this guide, we’ll walk you through what actually happens during a waterproofing job, the materials your contractor will likely bring up, and the questions worth asking before you hire anyone. TL;DR What’s Typically Included in a Roof-Waterproofing Service? In Townsville, roof waterproofing can only be done by licensed roof plumbers or waterproofing contractors if the work is worth more than $3300, which involves the following: 1. Roof Inspection First, a technician comes to your place, climbs up on the roof, and takes a good look around. They check for: They try to figure out where water is coming in from. Once they find the problem spots, they snap some photos and explain to you what’s going on, so you can see the issue clearly before any work starts. 2. Roof Cleaning Next, they give the roof a thorough cleaning; this is called ‘surface preparation’. They use high-pressure water to wash off dirt, moss, mould, bird droppings, and anything loose that stops the coating from sticking properly. This step is very important because waterproof coatings only bond well to a clean surface. If there’s dust or moisture left behind, the coating won’t stick properly and could peel off later. 3. Small Repairs Before applying any waterproofing, the expert checks for visible damage so the new layer can stick evenly to the surface. This includes: These repairs are necessary because if you just cover up damaged areas with waterproofing, the uneven, broken surface underneath can keep shifting, cracking, or getting worse over time. That can loosen or split your waterproof layer above it, letting water seep back in through the same weak spot. 4. Sealing the Weak Points Now the plumber focuses on the spots where roof leaks happen most often. This includes pipe openings, skylights (glass windows on roofs that let in natural light), and roof edges. These areas fail more because they have joints, gaps, and openings through which water can easily slip. They seal these areas using waterproof sealants and strengthening materials that block water from getting underneath the roof surface. 5. Applying the Waterproof Layer This is the main part of the service. The expert spreads a liquid waterproof coating across the whole roof using rollers or spray tools. Once it dries, it turns into a flexible protective layer, like a rubber skin over the roof. This blocks rainwater and also protects the roof underneath from the sun, moisture, and weather damage. The coating is applied in multiple layers. After the first coat dries fully, they add the next one on top. This creates a smooth, thicker, more durable waterproof barrier that’s less likely to crack or wear out. 6. Checking Drainage After coating, the plumber checks the roof drainage system to make sure water can flow off the roof properly. If water stays sitting in one place for too long (ponding), it can slowly weaken even a new waterproof layer. To prevent this, the professional examines the gutters, drains, downpipes, and the roof’s slope. If they find any problem, they may recommend clearing blockages, adjusting the roof slope, or improving drainage points so water can drain away properly instead of collecting on the roof. 7. Final Inspection and Clean-Up Finally, the plumber inspects the roof one more time to make sure everything is sealed properly and evenly coated. They also clean up the site and remove any leftover dirt or material. After that, you get a warranty that if the waterproofing fails or starts leaking within a certain time because of poor workmanship or material failure, the team will come back and repair it at zero cost. Types of Roof Waterproofing Solutions You May Be Offered The right solution depends on your roof material, slope, drainage, sun exposure, and how much movement or foot traffic the surface gets. Most Common Types of Roof Waterproofing Solutions – At a Glance Roof Type Best Waterproofing Solution Average Lifespan Metal Roofs (Colorbond, steel) Liquid-applied membranes, Acrylic coatings, PU coatings 10–15 years (liquid), 5–10 years (acrylic), 10–15 years (PU) Flat Concrete Roofs Torch-on bitumen membranes, Silicone coatings, Cementitious coatings, PU coatings 15–25 years (bitumen), 15–20 years (silicone), 8–12 years (cement), 10–15 years (PU) Tiled Roofs Liquid-applied membranes, Acrylic coatings 10–15 years (liquid), 5–10 years (acrylic) Roofs with Drainage Problems Silicone coatings, PU coatings, EPDM membranes 15–20 years (silicone), 10–15 years (PU), 25-30+ years (EPDM) Large Flat Roofs PVC or TPO sheet membranes, EPDM membranes 20–30 years (PVC/TPO), 25-30+ years (EPDM) 1. Membranes A membrane is a thick, continuous, waterproof layer that covers the roof like a shield. It is stronger and lasts longer than coatings. Liquid-Applied Membranes These are liquid waterproofing materials rolled or sprayed over the roof, where they dry into a seamless rubber-like layer. They are commonly used on metal and tiled roofs and complex roof shapes because the liquid spreads into cracks, joints, screw holes, and uneven areas to fully seal the surface. Most systems last around 10–15 years. Torch-On Bitumen Membranes This membrane uses thick rolls of bitumen (a sticky, tar-like, waterproof material) heated with a gas torch, so they melt, fuse, and stick to the roof to create a thick, waterproof sheet. They are mainly used

Roof Plumbing

Signs Your Roof Plumbing Vent Is Clogged & How to Fix it

admin / July 9, 2026

Your roof plumbing vent pulls fresh air into your pipes so water drains smoothly and sewer gases escape safely outside. But leaves, bird nests, dirt, and debris build up inside the vent pipe over time and block that airflow, which throws your entire plumbing system off balance. The good thing is that a clogged vent gives off very clear, hard-to-miss warning signs. By catching them early, you can clear the blockage yourself with basic tools before it escalates into a costly plumbing repair. In this guide, we’ll walk you through the most common signs of a clogged roof vent and exactly how to fix it safely. TL;DR Signs Your Roof Plumbing Vent Is Clogged How to Unclog Your Roof Plumbing Vent Safely Cleaning a roof vent yourself can save money, but it is risky work. Roofs are high and often slippery, and one wrong step can cause a serious fall. So, only attempt to unclog if you have a sturdy ladder, non-slip shoes, and someone with you to hold the ladder and watch from the ground. Here’s how to clear the vent step by step. Step 1: Clear The Area Around The Vent Pipe Once on the roof, you’ll see a pipe sticking out – this is the roof vent blocked by leaves, twigs, and sometimes bird nests. Wear gloves and remove all visible debris from the top. Be careful not to push anything inside the pipe, because that can send the blockage deeper into your plumbing system and make it harder to remove. Step 2: Flush The Pipe With a Garden Hose If the clog is not visible, it is likely deeper inside the pipe. Insert a garden hose into the vent opening and have someone turn on the water. The water pressure helps push the blockage down through the pipe and into the main drainage line, where it can clear naturally. If water starts coming back up out of the vent, it means the blockage is solid and fully blocking the pipe. Turn the water off immediately to avoid overflow and move to the next step. Step 3: Use a Plumbing Snake (Auger) to Break Up or Pull Out the Clog A plumbing snake, also called an ‘auger’, is a long, flexible metal cable designed to break up or pull out blockages inside pipes. Feed the cable down into the vent until you feel resistance – that is the clog. Turn the handle of the auger to rotate the metal cable so it can break through, hook, or push apart the blockage. Keep pushing and turning until the resistance loosens. After that, run the hose again to confirm water flows freely without backing up. If it still backs up, you need professional help. Step 4: Use a Wet-Dry Vacuum to Safely Suck Out the Blockage This method works best if the blockage is loose, like leaves, twigs, or light debris, and you want to remove it instead of pushing it further down the pipe. Do not take the vacuum machine onto the roof. Instead, use a long hose extension (around 6 to 10 metres). Most wet-dry vacuums can still work effectively at this length without losing much suction power. This allows you to keep the machine safely on the ground while only the lightweight hose goes up the ladder. When you reach the vent, secure the hose with a rope or bungee cord, so it stays in place and doesn’t affect your balance. Then ask the person on the ground to switch on the vacuum and let it pull the debris out of the pipe. Step 5: Install a Vent Cap for Future Protection After clearing the pipe, install a mesh vent cap or a U-shaped cover on top of the pipe, which allows air to flow freely but blocks leaves, birds, and other debris from entering again. Step 6: Clear the Clog From Inside the Attic (PVC Pipes Only) If you can’t safely access the roof, you can clear the blockage from inside the attic, but only if your vent pipe is made of PVC (plastic) because it can be safely cut and resealed. First, locate the vertical pipe inside your attic that leads up to the roof vent. Carefully cut a small section of the pipe using a hacksaw to create an access point. This gives you a controlled opening to work with. From here, insert a plumbing snake upward towards the roof or downward into the drainage line to break up the clog. Once the blockage is cleared, seal the cut opening properly by applying a patch fitting, repair coupling, or PVC solvent cement. This is very important because if it is not sealed properly, sewer gases can leak into your attic instead of going safely out through the roof vent. When to Call a Professional Plumber in Townsville DIY methods work for basic leaf or debris clogs, but some situations need a licensed plumber with proper tools, training, and safety equipment. Here’s when you should stop DIY work and call a professional: Final Thoughts If you notice signs like gurgling drains, slow flow in multiple fixtures, sewer smells, or bubbling water in toilets, it points to a blocked roof plumbing vent. In some cases, you can clear the vent yourself, but only if you can do it safely with a secure ladder and proper precautions. When roof access is risky, try clearing it from inside the attic (if you have PVC pipes). That said, if the problem continues after trying or if you are unsure about safety at any point, it’s best to call a professional plumber. A trained expert can quickly find the real cause (clogged vent or not) and fix it without risk to you or your property. For reliable help in Townsville, reach out to our team at 1touch Plumbing. Our licensed plumbers can inspect and clear your roof vent and get your plumbing system working properly again. FAQs Can I just cap my vent to keep the birds out?

Roof Repair

DIY Roof Leak Repair: What You Can Fix Yourself vs. When to Call a Pro

admin / July 7, 2026

Some roof leaks you can fix yourself in an afternoon. Others will cost you far more if you try. The tricky part is knowing which is which, because DIY-ing the wrong one doesn’t just leave the problem unsolved, it can mean structural damage, a bigger repair bill, or a nasty fall from an unstable roof. In this guide, we’ll show you exactly what’s safe to tackle yourself, what isn’t, and how to do the DIY repairs properly when you do take them on. TL;DR First Steps When You Notice a Roof Leak Roof Leak Repairs You Can Do Yourself Now that you’ve found the source of the leak, you can fix it yourself if it’s caused by one of the common minor issues below. 1. Replacing Worn Roof Screws on Metal Roofs On metal roofs, one of the most common leak points is the roof screws. Each screw has a rubber washer underneath it that creates a waterproof seal. Over time, the rubber dries out, cracks, or flattens, allowing water to seep through the screw hole. How to replace a leaking roof screw 2. Replacing a Cracked Roof Tile If you have a tiled roof, even one cracked tile can let rain slip underneath and reach your ceiling. How to replace a broken roof tile 3. Resealing Around Roof Pipes and Plumbing Vents Most roofs have pipes for plumbing or ventilation. Around these pipes is a rubber seal called a dektite or pipe boot that prevents water from entering. Over time, these rubber seals can crack, dry out, or pull away from the roof, allowing water in. How to reseal a leaking pipe boot Never use bathroom or cheap all-purpose silicone, as it breaks down quickly in the sun and rain. 4. Patching Small Holes in a Metal Roof Small rust holes in metal roofing can be temporarily patched instead of replacing the whole sheet. How to patch a small hole 5. Fixing Leaky Flashing and Roof Valleys Some of the most common roof leaks happen where different parts of the roof join. Two common trouble spots are: These areas carry large amounts of rainwater. If debris builds up or the metal lifts slightly, water can get underneath and enter the roof. How to repair minor flashing or valley leaks 6. Cleaning and Re-Sealing a Whirlybird A whirlybird is a round, spinning roof vent that removes hot air from the roof space and improves ventilation. They sit near the top of the roof and spin when the wind passes through them. Over time, wind, storms, and heat can loosen the base or damage the seal around it, allowing rainwater to enter. How to fix a leaking whirlybird If the whirlybird is dented, rusted, or not spinning, replacement is the better option. 7. Clearing Blocked Gutters Before They Cause Leaks If you’ve confirmed the roof is fine and the problem was just blocked gutters causing water to overflow back into the house, then you have to clean them. How to clear blocked gutters properly Roof Leak Repairs That Usually Need a Professional Roofer If you notice any of the following problems, it’s best to call a licensed roofer instead of trying to fix it yourself. These types of roof problems need proper inspection, specialised equipment, and repairs that meet local safety and building standards. Our team at 1touch Plumbing can identify the exact cause of the leak and carry out safe, long-lasting repairs suited to Townsville conditions. How to Decide: DIY Fix or Call a Pro? We’ve created this quick checklist to help you decide whether a DIY repair is enough or if you need to call a professional roofer. The “Go Ahead and DIY” Checklist If you can tick all of these boxes, you can likely handle the repair yourself: The “Call a Pro” Checklist If even one of these points is true, you need to hire a professional: Final Rule of Thumb: When in doubt, stay on the ground. A professional roof plumber has the insurance and safety equipment to handle the risks that you, as a homeowner, shouldn’t take. The cost of a pro is far cheaper than the cost of an accident or a ruined roof. When a Roof Leak Repair May Not Be Enough Sometimes a simple roof repair isn’t enough because the damage is widespread or the roof has reached the end of its life. In these cases, repairs are only temporary, and the problem will keep returning. A full roof replacement is needed if any of the following apply: Final Thoughts When roof leaks happen, act quickly to contain the damage and prevent it from becoming a much bigger and more expensive problem. Attempt DIY repair only if it’s a small, clearly visible issue that is safe to handle and you are confident that you know how to solve it. If you have any doubt about the source of the leak, the extent of the damage, or your ability to fix it properly, it is always better to call a professional. A wrong repair can easily make the problem worse or hide more serious damage that continues to spread inside your roof. For reliable help in Townsville, reach out to our team at 1touch Plumbing. Our licensed professionals will inspect your roof, identify the leak source, and carry out safe, long-lasting repairs or recommend replacement if needed.

Gas Leak

Gas Leak in Your House: How to Detect It & What to Do Immediately

admin / July 2, 2026

A strange smell you can’t ignore. A faint hissing sound that wasn’t there before. A gas flame that suddenly looks off. When things like this show up at home, it’s not something you can afford to ignore. In this guide, we’ll walk you through these warning signs so you can quickly assess if it’s a gas leak and what to do immediately to stay safe. TL;DR The Most Common Signs of a Gas Leak in a House A Strange Smell Like Rotten Eggs If you smell strong odours of rotten eggs near your cooktop, hot water system, heater, or bayonet fitting, that’s the biggest and most immediate sign of a gas leak. Gas is odourless and invisible, so most leaks go undetected. That is why gas suppliers add a chemical called mercaptan, which has a very strong, unpleasant smell, so even a small leak becomes obvious straight away. Hissing or Whistling Noises Near Gas Lines Gas in your pipes is under pressure. When there’s a crack, a loose connection, or a worn seal, the gas gets forced out through that small opening. As it escapes, it creates a steady hissing or light whistling sound, similar to air leaking from a pricked balloon. You’ll usually hear this near gas appliances, along exposed pipes, or around the metre. It’s often more noticeable in quiet moments, like late at night. Bubbles in Standing Water Gas is invisible, but you can still spot a leak if it passes through water. If you suspect a leak, apply soapy water to a pipe joint or the area you think might be affected; escaping gas will push through the liquid and form bubbles. The same thing can happen outdoors. If there’s a leak in an underground gas line, you will see bubbles in the puddle, damp ground, or muddy patch above it. That bubbling happens because the gas is rising to the surface and forcing its way through the moisture. Dead or Discoloured Patches of Grass When a leak occurs underground, the gas escapes into the soil and replaces the oxygen that plant roots need to survive. Without oxygen, the roots can’t survive, and the grass above starts to weaken and die. So, if you notice a patch or strip of grass turning yellow or brown while the rest of your lawn looks healthy – especially if that patch follows a straight line where a gas pipe is likely running – it often points to an underground gas leak rather than a watering or soil issue. A Yellow or Orange Burner Flame Gas needs oxygen from the air to burn properly and release carbon dioxide (CO₂). A healthy flame should be blue and steady. That blue colour shows the gas is mixing well with enough oxygen and burning fully. This is called complete combustion, and it’s how your appliance is meant to work. If the flame turns yellow or orange, it means the gas isn’t getting enough oxygen while burning. This usually happens when the burner holes are partly blocked with dirt, grease, or soot, so less air mixes with the gas. Because of this, the gas burns incompletely, and instead of producing CO₂, it releases carbon monoxide (CO) (a dangerous, invisible gas) and soot that appears as black or oily marks around the burner or on cookware. Some of the gas may not burn at all and can escape into the surrounding air. So, while the yellow flame itself is a sign of a faulty appliance and poor burning, the result is a slow buildup of raw gas or dangerous carbon monoxide in your room every time the stove is on. Physical Symptoms When gas leaks into a room, it starts to replace the oxygen in the air. Your body needs oxygen to breathe, so even a small drop in its concentration in the air can affect you quickly. That’s why you might experience: But how can you tell it’s the air inside, not just a cold or fatigue? You can confirm this through a location test. Step outside into fresh air and see what happens. Unusual Clouds, Mist, or Moving Dust If a pipe is damaged or ruptures, the gas can escape in a strong, fast stream. That sudden release pushes against the air and tiny particles around it, so you might notice dust, dirt, or dry leaves moving or swirling in one small area, even when there’s no wind. You might also notice a slightly disturbed or unsettled patch of ground because the gas coming out from below is displacing the air and soil particles at the surface, which can make that spot look different from the rest of the ground. In some situations, especially in cooler early mornings in places like Townsville, where humidity is higher, you might also see a faint white mist or fog close to the ground. This happens because when gas is released quickly, it expands and cools the surrounding air. That rapid cooling causes moisture already in the air to condense into tiny water droplets, which you see as a visible mist. A Sudden Spike in Your Gas Bill If your daily habits haven’t changed (same cooking, same hot water use) but your bill suddenly jumps, it usually means gas is escaping through a leak, or there may be a billing error, which is rare. You can do a simple metre check at home to find if there is a gas leak. Turn off all your gas appliances, but leave the main gas supply on. Then go and look at your gas metre, which is found in a metal box at the front or along the side of your house. If the numbers are still moving or the dial is still spinning, it means gas is still flowing through the system, so there is a leak. Can You Have a Gas Leak Without Smelling It? Yes, you might not smell a gas leak because of the following reasons: This is why relying on a scent only is

Plumbing

Backflow Prevention & Testing: What Every QLD Homeowner Should Know

admin / June 30, 2026

You’ve probably received a notice about backflow testing or noticed a small valve near your water metre without thinking much of it. After all, your tap water looks clean and safe – so it’s easy to assume everything is working as it should. But when your home has a swimming pool, a rainwater tank, or an irrigation system, there are situations where water from those systems, carrying bacteria, dirt, and chemicals, can flow backwards into the main water line and contaminate your supply. That’s why that valve is there – it’s a backflow prevention device, and it’s designed to stop that from happening. But it can only protect you if it’s working properly, which is why regular testing is needed. In this guide, we’ll walk you through how backflow testing works, how often you need it, and what can happen if it’s ignored. TL;DR What Backflow Testing Actually Means Backflow testing is a professional check to make sure your backflow prevention device is doing its job properly: stopping contaminated water from getting into your clean, drinking water supply. Under normal circumstances, the flow of water is in one direction. Water moves from high pressure in the council water main (in the street) through your water metre into your house, which has lower pressure. Sometimes, though, this process reverses. If the pressure in your home increases (higher than the street’s) or the pressure in the street decreases dramatically, the flow can reverse, and water moves from your house pipes into the street’s pipes. To prevent this situation, a backflow prevention device is installed on your property (often near the water metre or at the points of connection for irrigation or tanks). It has a one-way check valve that allows water to flow in one direction only and automatically closes if the direction of flow is reversed. Unfortunately, in Townsville, the hard water contains minerals, which can gradually build up inside the components within your backflow device. With the buildup of minerals, the components stick together or start wearing out, and eventually, the valve in the backflow device will not seal correctly. If the backflow device fails to close when flow is reversed, it won’t be able to prevent polluted water from contaminating the mains supply, letting bacteria and chemicals enter your drinking water and causing serious health problems. That is why backflow testing is very important, as it verifies that your device correctly responds and closes off to the reversal of water flow. Does Backflow Testing Apply to Your Home in Queensland? Backflow testing only applies to your home if you have a testable device installed. In Queensland, these devices are mandatory if your property has medium- to high-risk water setups, like: How Often Is Backflow Testing Required in QLD In Queensland, backflow testing must be carried out once a year. The Townsville City Council keeps a database, or a backflow register, of all of the properties in the city with a testable device. Each year, they send you – the registered person – an invoice for your annual registration fee or a renewal notice. Once you get the notice, it’s your responsibility to make sure that the device gets tested by the end of the calendar year (31st December) and the fee is paid. Who Can Legally Perform the Test? In Queensland, only a plumber who meets the requirements below can perform the test: Now, to know for sure that you’re choosing a qualified professional, just ask them, “Do you have a backflow endorsement, and is your test kit currently in calibration?” An expert will happily present their QBCC card, which shows ‘Backflow Prevention’ under ‘endorsements’ on the back. Alternatively, you can quickly verify their credentials yourself on the QBCC Licensee Register online. All you need is their name or licence number to access their full details and ensure their status is active. What Happens During The Appointment The backflow appointment normally takes 30 to 45 minutes. Here’s a breakdown of what happens during that time: Along with the completed Form 9, you pay the lodgement fee to the Council to ensure that your device remains registered for the rest of the year. What If The Backflow Device Fails? By Queensland law, if your backflow device fails, you have to get it repaired or replaced immediately. Most of the failures happen for small things, like a dried-out rubber seal or a bit of grit getting stuck in the valve. Your plumber will open the device, give it a good clean, and replace any worn-out rubber parts. Once the repair is done, the plumber will test the device again. If your device passes the test this time, they will fill out a Form 9 to give to the Townsville City Council as your official “Pass” notice and note that your device was serviced to get it working properly again. But sometimes, your backflow device is too old, or the metal itself is too corroded for repair. If that’s the case, a whole new backflow prevention device will have to be installed, and the new system will be tested. In this situation, your plumber submits two separate forms: Very rarely, a plumber might not be able to repair your device on the spot if they don’t have a spare part or can’t find a suitable replacement. In such a case, they cannot leave your water system at risk. They’ll disconnect your water supply to the hazard appliance (like an irrigation system or pool) by turning off the valve to those appliances while leaving the rest of your house connected to the main supply, so you can carry out your daily activities until they return with the part. Can a Backflow Prevention Device Be Removed Instead? The short answer is yes, but only if the reason it was installed in the first place is gone. If you’ve made changes to your plumbing that remove the original risk – like getting rid of a pool, switching from automatic sprinklers to a simple garden

Hot Water System

What Size Hot-Water System Do I Need?

admin / June 25, 2026

If you’re trying to work out what size hot water system to buy, you’re probably hoping for a quick answer like “2 people = this size” or “4 people = that size”. But it’s not that simple. Headcount gives you a good starting point, but what really matters is how your home uses hot water at its busiest times. Two people taking long, back-to-back showers can easily use more hot water than a family of four who take shorter showers and space out their usage instead of running everything at once. That’s why sizing is not just about numbers but also about your routine and a bunch of other things we’ll walk you through in this guide. It’ll help you choose a system that actually works for your home without running out or being oversized. TL;DR How Hot Water System Sizing Differs (By System Type) Storage Systems Storage systems heat water and keep it in a tank, so these systems are sized in litres (L) and come in a wide range of sizes – from small 25L units for single-point use (like a single tap) to large 400L+ systems designed for full family homes. The number tells you how much hot water is available in storage at one time before the system needs to recover. Continuous Flow Systems (Instantaneous Systems) In continuous flow systems, since there is no tank and the system heats water as it passes through the unit, they can’t be sized based on a litre capacity; instead, they are sized by flow rate in litres per minute (L/min). Continuous flow systems usually range from 12 L/min to 32 L/min+. This number shows how much hot water the system can deliver at one time, which determines how many showers or taps can run together without losing temperature or pressure. Now that you understand how sizing works differently for each system, you can apply the right method to the system you’re installing in your home and work out the correct size from there. The Main Factors That Determine What Size Hot Water System You Need Number of People In The Household The number of people living in your home is the starting point for understanding your hot water use, as more people means more showers, dishwashing, laundry, etc., which all add up quickly. In Australia, one person uses about 50 litres of hot water per day. Based on this per-person usage and the number of people in your house, you can calculate your family usage and the size of your storage tank. For instance, if you have a family of four, 4 people × 50 L each = 200 litres of hot water usage. Now, since your family uses around 200 litres a day, it might seem logical to go for a 200L tank, but please don’t. Because, for instance, in real life, someone might take a longer shower, or there might be an extra load of laundry to do, which can increase your family’s usage from the calculated value and empty the tank earlier. That’s why you always add a buffer of around 50–100 litres, so you don’t run out of hot water. For a continuous flow system, the number of people doesn’t directly decide the size because it heats water as you use it, not based on how much is used overall in a day. But it still helps you understand the overall system size. For instance, more people mean a higher chance of multiple showers or taps running at the same time, which pushes you towards a higher flow rate system. Peak-Time Hot Water Usage Peak time is the busiest hour in your day – usually the morning before school or work, or the evening after sports and daily routines – when most hot water is being used at the same time. In a storage system, the tank needs to hold enough hot water to cover everything used during this peak window. To calculate this peak usage, look only at your busiest 60 minutes and add them up. Now imagine most of this happening in the same hour. For example, in a typical family morning: That already puts you at around 200+ litres in one peak hour, without even adding anything extra like taking longer showers. So, for extra usage, step up to a safe working range by choosing a tank size 20–30% larger than the calculated peak demand. If you are sizing a continuous flow system, you need to find the litres per minute (L/min) that will be enough to supply all running fixtures during peak time. Now, for the same example, let’s calculate the litres per minute (L/min) required: So total simultaneous demand becomes 29 L/min. But just like with a storage system, you should always add around a 2–5 L/min margin to your calculated peak load to cover unexpected usage. Number of Bathrooms/Showers In Australia, around 80% of people shower daily, so showers are the biggest and most regular use of hot water in most homes. In a storage system, the number of bathrooms affects how quickly the tank will be empty because more bathrooms mean more chances of multiple showers running at the same time (higher simultaneous use), which creates a faster drain on the tank, so you need a bigger tank. For calculation, you can use this formula: (Number of Showers) x (9 L/min average shower flow rate) x (average shower time) For example, if you have a 2-bathroom home and two people take a 10-minute shower each, the calculation looks like this: 2 showers × 9 L/min × 10 minutes = 180 litres That means in just 10 minutes, you can use around 180 litres of hot water. If you only have a 160L tank, it will run out before both showers are finished. That’s why you always add a buffer of 50–100 litres, so the system can comfortably handle the showers and any other hot water use happening at the same time without running short. With continuous flow

Plumbing

How to Unblock a Toilet: Safe DIY Methods & When to Call a Plumber

admin / June 23, 2026

You flush the toilet, the water rises instead of going down, and suddenly, a simple bathroom trip gets messy and stressful. Most of the time, it’s too much toilet paper or a small clog in the bend of the toilet, blocking water from flowing properly. The good news is you can clear out these minor blockages using a few safe DIY methods. But first, you must understand what type of blockage you’re dealing with, so you don’t waste time on the wrong fix. In this guide, we’ll walk you through exactly what to do right away, how to unblock a toilet using simple methods, and the clear signs that tell you when it’s no longer a DIY job and you need a licensed plumber. TL;DR First: Stop the Toilet From Overflowing The float controls the fill valve. As the tank fills, the float rises, and once it reaches a set height, it shuts off the water supply. If the water is still running, gently lift the float as high as it will go and hold it there. This forces the valve to close and stops more water from entering the tank. Understand What Kind of Blockage You’re Dealing With Before you try to fix anything, figure out what kind of blockage it is. This tells you how serious it is and whether you can handle it yourself or need an expert. Most toilet blockages fall into two types: 1. Simple Clogs A simple clog means the blockage is stuck inside the toilet itself, usually in the S-bend (the curved part inside the base of the toilet). This bend holds a bit of water to stop sewer smells from coming back into your bathroom, but because it’s narrow and curved, it’s the easiest place for things to get stuck. Clogs happen because of: How to spot a simple clog: Because the issue is in the toilet, you can fix it yourself using basic tools. 2. Deep Blockages A deep blockage means the problem is further down in your home’s drainage system, usually in the main sewer line that carries waste out of your house. Deep blockages happen because of: How to spot a deep blockage: If you notice these signs, this isn’t something you can fix yourself because the issue is deep in the system and out of your reach. Also, under Queensland regulations, any work on sewer pipes must be carried out by a licensed plumber. DIY Methods to Unblock a Toilet If you’ve worked out that it’s a simple clog, you can clear it yourself using the methods below. Method 1: Use a Toilet Plunger the Right Way A plunger is the most effective way to clear a toilet blockage, but it only works if you use the right type to create a tight seal. Always use a flange plunger and not a flat plunger when unblocking a toilet. A flat plunger, as the name says, has a flat base designed for surfaces like basins and sinks, so it will not sit and seal properly in the round and recessed toilet opening. A flange plunger is made specifically for toilets. It has a soft rubber cup with an extra fold underneath that sits slightly inside the toilet opening to cover it completely and form a tight seal around the hole, so you can build enough pressure to move the blockage. How to use it: Method 2: Use a Toilet Auger for Stubborn Clogs If the plunger doesn’t work, the clog is likely deeper or more solid, so use a toilet auger (also called a plumbing snake). It’s a long, flexible metal cable designed to reach deeper into the toilet trap and either break the blockage or pull it out. How to use it: Method 3: Try Hot Water and Dish Soap This works well for clogs caused by toilet paper because the soap helps it slide, and the hot water softens it. How to do it: Method 4: Use Baking Soda and Vinegar Carefully This method works by creating a gentle fizzing reaction that helps loosen minor clogs, especially those caused by toilet paper. How to do it: DIY Methods to Use With Caution These are emergency options, so you only use them if you’re stuck without proper tools. The Wire Hanger Trick This is a homemade version of a plumbing snake that only works if the clog is sitting very close to the toilet opening, almost within reach. How to do it: Please know that if you push too hard, the clog can move deeper into the S-bend. And once that happens, a hanger won’t reach it anymore, and it becomes a plumber’s job, which takes more time and higher repair costs. Wet/Dry Vacuum (Suction Method) This method is only for cases where you know for sure that something solid is stuck in the toilet, like a toy, toothbrush, or small object, and you have to take it out. How to do it: This only works with a wet/dry vacuum. A normal household vacuum isn’t designed for water, so it can damage the motor and even create an electrical hazard. Also, the vacuum can accidentally pull in sewer gases or spray dirty water everywhere if the towel seal isn’t tight, which can spread germs and create a health risk, making the situation messier and harder for you to clean up. Avoid Harsh Chemical Cleaners Most chemical cleaners are made for sinks, where hair and grease sit closer to the surface. In a toilet, the blockage is usually further down and already sitting in water, so the chemical doesn’t always reach it properly or break it apart. These cleaners also create heat when they react inside the pipe. In older or worn plumbing, that heat can put stress on pipe joints and seals, which may lead to leaks or damage over time. If the blockage doesn’t clear, you’re left with a bowl full of strong chemical water. That becomes a problem later because anyone working on the toilet

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