Pipe Relining Process, Costs & When You Need It

Pipe relining has become a popular solution for homeowners dealing with recurring drain and sewer pipe problems, and for good reason. Instead of digging up your yard, driveway, or floors to replace damaged pipes, plumbers can repair them from the inside using a trenchless method that is faster, less disruptive, and often more cost-effective.

But while pipe relining offers clear advantages, it's not always the right fix for every pipe problem. Factors like the pipe's condition, alignment, and overall structure can sometimes disqualify you for relining, and in those cases, complete replacement is often a better option.

This guide explains everything you need to know about pipe relining, including how the process works, when it's suitable, what it typically costs, and when a full pipe replacement may make more sense.

TL;DR

Pipe relining is a no-dig repair that inserts a resin-coated liner into damaged pipes, creating a smooth pipe within a pipe.
Best for leaks, slow drains, root intrusion, and joint misalignment in older clay or PVC pipes, common in Townsville.
Early warning signs include recurring blockages, gurgling drains, sewer gas smells, or unusually green patches in your lawn.
How it works: pipes are inspected with CCTV, cleaned, lined with resin-soaked material, inflated, and cured, and branch connections are reopened.
Limitations: Not suitable for completely collapsed pipes, severe dips, or misaligned sections. In these cases, spot repairs, excavation, or pipe bursting may be needed.
Cost range: Small sections cost ~$2,000–$3,500; full sewer line relines cost $3,000–$10,000+, depending on pipe size, access, branch connections, and material.
Potential risks: A slight reduction in pipe diameter, wrinkles, poor bonding if cleaning is incomplete, and irreversibility once cured, so choose an experienced plumber.
Most residential jobs take 6–10 hours, with 2–4 hours of water restrictions during resin curing. Proper preparation of entry points ensures smooth, safe installation.

What Is Pipe Relining?

Pipe relining is a trenchless, non-invasive method to fix damaged sewer and drain pipes. Instead of tearing up your yard, driveway, or floors, plumbers insert a resin-coated liner into the existing pipe. Once it hardens, it forms a strong, seamless pipe within a pipe that can last 40–60 years.

It's commonly used to stop leaks, block tree roots, and improve slow drains without the mess and cost of traditional excavation.

In Townsville, this method is especially useful because many older homes have earthenware or early PVC pipes joined in sections. During the wet season, soil shifts and tree roots can push into these joints, causing cracks, leaks, and blockages. Relining solves this by creating a continuous, joint-free inner pipe, so roots can't get in, and your plumbing flows smoothly.

How Pipe Relining Works: What Happens Step by Step

1. CCTV Inspection and Damage Assessment

The first step is to inspect the inside of the pipe using a specialised drain camera to see exactly what's wrong and confirm whether relining will work.

Here's what the technician does during the inspection:

Insert a CCTV drain camera: A small, high-definition camera is inserted into the pipe through an existing access point, such as an inspection opening or external drain. The camera sends live footage of the pipe interior to a monitor.
Record the pipe condition and exact locations: As the camera moves through the pipe, it records cracks, root intrusion, blockages, or broken joints. The camera cable has a distance counter, which tells the plumber exactly how far each problem is from the entry point. This helps them measure the length of the liner needed and identify the exact repair area.
Check whether the pipe is suitable for relining: The technician examines the pipe's overall shape and stability. Relining works well for cracks, joint failures, and root intrusion, but it may not be suitable if:

Large sections of the pipe have fully collapsed.
The pipe has a severe dip (belly) where water constantly pools.

c. Sections are badly misaligned.

In these cases, excavation and pipe replacement may be required.

Locate pipe connections: The camera identifies where smaller pipes connect into the main drain (for example, from toilets, showers, or sinks). These connection points are recorded so that after the liner cures, the plumber can reopen those junctions from inside the pipe to restore flow from each fixture.

2. High-Pressure Cleaning and Pipe Preparation

Once the CCTV inspection confirms the pipe is suitable for relining, the next step is to thoroughly clean and prepare it.

Any grease, roots, or mineral buildup left inside can stop the resin from bonding properly, so the pipe must be cleared before the liner goes in.

Here's how plumbers get it ready:

Blast away debris with hydro-jetting: A high-pressure water jet (around 4,000–5,000 PSI) is sent through the pipe. This washes out grease, sludge, silt, and loose tree roots without damaging the pipe.
Scrape away stubborn scale and roots: In older clay or earthenware pipes, some hard mineral deposits and tough root stubs remain after jetting. Plumbers use a rotating mechanical tool to scrape the walls and remove this buildup.
Flush out all debris: The loosened material is then flushed down the sewer or removed with a vacuum, leaving the pipe completely clear and open.
Final CCTV check: The camera runs through the pipe again to confirm it's fully cleaned and ready for the liner. If there are any remaining obstructions or wet spots, the cleaning needs to be done again.

3. Measuring the Pipe and Preparing the Liner

Once the pipe is clean and ready, the plumber prepares the liner, which is the material that will become the new pipe inside the old one.

Here's what happens:

Measure the repair section: Using the distance data from the CCTV inspection, the plumber identifies where the damaged pipe starts and ends. The liner material – usually felt or fibreglass – is then cut to the exact length to cover the entire damaged area.
Mix the epoxy resin: The resin used for relining comes in two separate components – a base and a hardener. The plumber mixes them together, a chemical reaction begins, and the resin starts to cure (harden). Once mixed, there is a limited window to install the liner before it completely hardens.
Soak the liner with resin: The liner is a flexible tube into which mixed resin is poured, and then it's passed through rollers to evenly spread the resin throughout the liner. This step is crucial because any dry spots could create weak points in the new pipe.

4. Installing the Liner Inside the Pipe

Now it is time to insert the resin-soaked liner into the existing pipe. Plumbers typically use one of two methods, depending on the pipe layout and access points.

Inversion method (turned inside out into the pipe)

In this method, the liner is placed into a pressurised container called an inversion drum. Compressed air or water pushes the liner into the pipe while turning it inside out as it moves forward.

Inside out means the resin-coated side of the liner, which will form the new pipe wall, ends up pressed against the inside of the old pipe, while the plain side faces the centre.

This method is especially useful for pipes with bends, because the pressure helps the liner bend and follow the curves without wrinkling or folding.

2. Pull-in-place method

For straight pipes or small repairs, a cable or winch line is first fed through the pipe. The prepared liner is attached to this cable and pulled into the exact position where the damage is located.

Once the liner is in place, the plumber uses the CCTV camera to confirm the liner is positioned correctly and fully covering the damaged section before the curing process begins.

5. Inflating the Liner to Shape the New Pipe

Once the resin-soaked liner is in place, it needs to be pressed firmly against the inside of the old pipe so it forms a strong new pipe wall.

Plumbers do this by inserting a long inflatable tube, called a calibration tube or bladder, inside the liner. Compressed air or water is pumped into the tube using specialised equipment on the truck at the work site. As the bladder inflates, it pushes the liner tightly against the pipe walls, ensuring the resin spreads evenly and seals all cracks and damaged joints.

6. Curing the Resin

With the liner held tightly in place, now it is time to turn the liquid resin inside the liner into a strong, solid pipe lining.

In warm climates like Townsville, the resin can sometimes cure naturally over a few hours because higher temperatures speed up the hardening process. However, to complete the job faster and more reliably, plumbers often circulate hot water or steam through the inflated bladder. The added heat helps the resin cure evenly along the entire length of the liner.

Once curing is complete, the liner hardens into a rigid, seamless pipe inside the old one. The original pipe becomes a protective shell, while the newly cured lining carries the wastewater flow.

7. Reopening Branch Connections

After the new liner is in place, it covers the points where smaller pipes – from toilets, showers, or sinks – connect to the main sewer line. These connections need to be reopened so water can flow from every fixture.

Plumbers do this using a small, remote-controlled cutting tool with a camera. The technician navigates the tool to each connection using the CCTV footage and locations from the initial inspection. The cutting head then precisely opens a hole in the liner that matches the size of the branch pipe.

This restores the connection while keeping the inside of the pipe smooth and even, so wastewater flows freely without getting caught on rough edges.

8. Final CCTV Inspection and Verification

After the new liner is cured, plumbers perform a final CCTV inspection to make sure the repair is done correctly. A camera is sent through the full length of the pipe to check that the liner is smooth, fully bonded to the old pipe walls, and free of wrinkles or gaps.

The technician also runs water from toilets, showers, sinks, and other fixtures to confirm every branch connection is open and the pipe flows properly.

Finally, you usually receive a digital recording of the inspection. This acts as proof of the work and is often supported by long-term warranties for both the liner and the installation, giving you peace of mind that the repair will last.

When You Need Pipe Relining

You'd need to have your pipes relined if you're experiencing the following:

Recurring blockages: Drains that need snaking or hydro-jetting more than once a year often point to structural damage or root intrusion.

Gurgling drains or overflow gully: A glug-glug sound after flushing means air is trapped in a partially blocked or cracked pipe. If it keeps happening, the pipe wall may be damaged.

Unusually green patches in your lawn: Lush spots during a dry spell can indicate a slow leak from underground pipes, where escaping wastewater fertilises the grass.
Sewer gas smells: Rotten-egg odours from drains or the yard mean sewer gas is escaping through cracks or faulty joints.

All of these signs indicate that the underlying pipe is compromised and requires relining to restore its structure and proper function.

Common Problems Pipe Relining Fixes

Root intrusion: Tree roots enter the pipes and grow into joints and cracks, eventually splitting the pipe. A liner seals these cracks and joints, stopping roots from entering and causing damage.
Misaligned joints: Older clay pipes are made in short segments joined together. Over time, Townsville's reactive clay soils can make these segments shift, creating gaps where leaks or blockages occur. A liner forms a smooth, continuous pipe inside the old sections, bridging the gaps.
Pinholes and corrosion: Metal pipes that have been in the ground for decades can develop tiny holes or pitting, which can slowly leak and even undermine your home's foundations. The liner provides a new, non-corrosive internal wall to restore the pipe's strength and stop leaks.
Brittle PVC: PVC pipes installed in the 1970s and 1980s can become stiff and fragile over time, making them prone to cracking or breaking under the weight of soil above. Relining adds a strong internal layer that reinforces the pipe, which allows it to withstand soil pressure and remain intact for decades.

When Relining May NOT Be Suitable

Total collapse: If the pipe has completely collapsed or flattened, there's nothing for the liner to hold onto. Without an old host pipe to attach to, relining isn't possible.
Severe sags (bellies): Sometimes a pipe has deep dips or U-shaped curves that allow water and waste to collect. A liner will simply follow the same dip, so pooling and blockages will continue.
Major offsets: If two sections of pipe have shifted out of alignment by more than 20–30%, a liner might span the gap, but it can create a lip at the joint. Waste can catch on this lip, causing new blockages.

In these cases, plumbers typically turn to other solutions – such as traditional excavation, spot repairs, or pipe bursting – to completely fix the damaged pipe.

Pipe Relining Cost: What You Should Expect to Pay

In Townsville, most residential pipe relining jobs cost between $3,000 and $10,000+.

For smaller, localised repairs – usually around 1–2 metres of pipe – prices often start at about $2,000–$3,500.

Larger relining projects, such as repairing the entire sewer line from your house to the council connection at the kerb, can exceed $10,000, especially when the pipe has multiple branch connections.

Plumbers typically quote you in one of two ways:

Per-metre pricing: usually around $400–$1,000 per metre, depending on the pipe diameter, bends, and installation complexity.

2. Per-job pricing: Some plumbers charge a base price that covers equipment setup and the first few metres, then apply a lower per-metre rate for additional length.

Key Factors That Affect Price

Pipe diameter: Most residential sewer lines are 100 mm, but larger pipes like 150 mm stormwater mains require more resin and liner material, which can add 20–30% to the price.
Number of branch connections: Every pipe that joins the main line, such as toilets, sinks, or showers, must be carefully reopened using a robotic cutter. This work usually costs $300–$800 per junction.
Depth and access: Even though relining is trenchless, the plumber still needs access to the pipe. Pipes under concrete slabs, patios, or in tight crawl spaces may require extra labour or temporary openings, which can increase the quote by several hundred dollars.
Pipe condition: Pipes with heavy mineral scale or thick tree root intrusions take longer to clean, which can increase labour costs by 15% to 20% compared to a relatively clean line.
Pipe bends and length: More bends or longer pipe runs make installation trickier, which can raise per-metre charges.
Climate considerations: High heat and humidity in Townsville can make the resin cure too quickly. Plumbers may need slow-set resins or cooling equipment to slow the chemical reaction, which adds a small premium of about 2–5%.

Type of liner material: Premium liners, such as fibreglass instead of felt, are designed to resist aggressive roots or chemicals. If you choose premium liners, it increases the price by roughly 10% to 15% but provides better long-term security.
Warranty and guarantees: Reputable plumbing companies often include long-term manufacturer warranties (up to 50 years) and installation guarantees (10 years), which adds 2–5% but protects your investment if anything goes wrong.

At 1touch Plumbing, we offer upfront pricing with no hidden surprises, so you can plan your relining job with confidence and know exactly what you're paying for.

Potential Downsides and Risks of Pipe Relining

Pipe relining is not a perfect fix, and sometimes there are some risks involved.

Because the process creates a pipe within a pipe, the internal diameter becomes slightly smaller, typically 5–10% narrower.

In most homes, this isn't a major issue because household drain pipes are typically designed with extra capacity, so water and waste can still flow normally. However, it is still a small consideration, especially if the pipe is already narrow or frequently overloaded. That's why a professional inspection is important before relining.

Other potential issues usually come down to installation quality:

Wrinkles or uneven curing: If the resin hardens too quickly, it can leave small bumps or ridges inside the new pipe. These uneven spots can catch hair, toilet paper, or other debris, which may slow drainage or cause minor blockages.
Poor bonding from scaling: Hard water can leave mineral deposits inside pipes. If these aren't completely removed before relining, the resin may not stick properly. This can allow water to seep between the old pipe and the new liner, reducing the repair's effectiveness.
Irreversibility: Once the resin cures, it becomes a permanent part of the pipe. Any mistakes during preparation, insertion, or resin soaking cannot be undone. Correcting a failed liner usually requires digging up the pipe – the very problem relining is designed to avoid.

To avoid these risks, it's important to choose a plumber with experience, proper equipment, and a thorough process that ensures each step of the installation is done correctly.

What to Expect During a Pipe Relining Job

Most residential pipe relining jobs are completed in one day, usually taking 6–10 hours.

The longest part is the curing phase, when the resin hardens. During this time, typically 2–4 hours, you won't be able to use any water that flows into the relined pipe. That means no showers, toilets, dishwashers, or washing machines, because even a small trickle of water can disturb the wet liner or create a weak spot in the new pipe.

The plumbers will set up their equipment near an existing inspection opening or boundary trap. This includes a high-pressure jetter, CCTV trailer, and resin-mixing station. You'll hear a steady hum, similar to a large pressure washer running in your yard.

Most of the work happens outside, but experts need clear access to the pipe entry points, which could be in your garden, under a deck, or near your driveway. So, clear these areas beforehand so the job runs smoothly.

Final Thoughts

Pipe relining isn't the right solution for every situation, but when the pipe is still structurally intact, it can be one of the most practical ways to restore a damaged drain line without major disruption to your property. The key is simply knowing the real condition of the pipe first.

A professional CCTV drain inspection can show exactly what's happening inside the line, whether it's cracks, tree roots, joint movement, or something more serious like a collapse. Once you can actually see the problem, it becomes much easier to decide whether pipe relining, a small spot repair, or a full replacement is the best option.

At 1touch Plumbing, our licensed team uses CCTV drain inspections and modern relining technology to accurately diagnose pipe problems and recommend the most effective repair. We focus on practical, long-term solutions that restore your drainage with minimal disruption to your home.

FAQs

How much cheaper is relining compared to digging up my yard?

In Townsville, fully excavating and replacing a buried pipe under a driveway, patio, or established garden can cost anywhere from $6,000 to $12,000 or more, depending on access and restoration needs.

The same repair using pipe relining typically costs between $3,000 and $10,000, depending on the pipe length and complexity.

This means relining can save thousands of dollars while fixing the pipe without disturbing your property.

Can tree roots grow back through a relined pipe?

No. A properly relined pipe forms a continuous, solid barrier with no cracks or joints for roots to enter. While older pipes or poorly relined sections can still be vulnerable, a full, professional lining makes root intrusion extremely unlikely.

Do I have to move out of my house during work?

Not at all. You can stay home and carry out daily activities. The only restriction is a dry period of about 2-4 hours while the resin cures. During this time, you cannot use water that flows into the relined pipe, so no showers, toilets, or dishwashers. Once the resin has hardened and all branch connections are reopened, your plumbing is fully operational again.

Can you reline a collapsed pipe?

It depends on how badly the pipe has collapsed. If only a small section is damaged, our team can dig out that part, replace it, and then reline the rest of the pipe to prevent future issues.

But if the pipe is completely crushed or several sections are dislodged, relining isn't possible, and the pipe will need to be fully replaced.

< Older Post

Newer Post >

Looking for a quote? Click here to upload your images and get a quote today